Distribution

The curachs of the Sheephaven area of Donegal divide into two types, the Dunfanaghy currach described here and the simpler Downings currach without the fixed seat but with an additional bow brace. Its stringers are willow or hazel, rather than laths. Both are usually around 16’-17’ in length, 21"/19" (under seat/aft) deep and 4’ in beam, they are boat shape with a distinctly pointed bow and a transom stern. In a single gunwale frame, the stringers are tied to ribs of coppiced hazel with twine. A similar type might have been used on Rathlin Island.

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The Frame

Two 10'6" sections of 2”x3” white deal are joint to the 3’4” stem piece of the same dimensions with a near half-lap joint and are then bolted together with M10x60 coach bolts (stainless steel or galvanised). The main frame extends the stern by 3”-4”, this extension will be handy as handles to carry the boat. The front of the frame is temporarily fixed with a batten to give a 4’ beam.

The curved bow section of 6’6” is cut out of a wide plank of 2” deal. Alternatively two straight 2”x3” piece can be used, where a 4” long wedge is cut of the rear end of each plank and is then glued onto the opposite side of the plank. This gives a pseudo-curved bow. The front is half-lapped and fixed with screws, making sure that the rear end of the bow section is 4’ wide to meet the main frame and again temporarily fixed with a batten. The underside of the rear end of the bow is now scarphed to give the front of the bow a 9”-12” rise above the main frame. A 3” long joint, tapering to 1⁄2” at the ends is a good starting point.

The two parts of the frame are now joined with M10x60 coach bolts, making sure it is square by taking diagonal cross measures. A strip of 14” long and 1 1⁄2” wide thin galvanised steel sheet is now wrapped around the joints on both sides of the bolt and fixed underneath with a few screws. This restricts the movement of the otherwise deliberately flexible joint assembly. A 1”x1 1⁄2” cross-batten can now be attached on the underside of the bow section, c. 12” from the bow joint to give extra strength and also for tying mooring lines, etc.

The seat

In the Dunfanaghy currach, the seat or thwart of c.36”-38” in length of 7”x1” (scaffolding plank) is an integral part of the structure. It is ‘hung’ by two trapezoid blocks of timber from the frame, c.2”-4” behind the joint. These blocks are 7” long by 3”x5” deep, flaring inwards. An oblique hole is drilled through the three parts and they are fixed with a long coach bolt. A c. 30” long strip of 1 1⁄2” wide thin galvanised steel sheet runs from the top to the underside of the seat across this assembly on both sides. It will take the tension of the gunwales, which will twist under the force of the hazel ribs.

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The ribs or couples

Hazel rods for the ribs should have been cut from hedgerows about four to eight weeks in advance of this next step. Around 50 of 3⁄4” to 7/8” and 7” length are needed as well as about 50 of 5/8” by 4’ long The finished frame is now turned over and 18-20 3⁄4” holes for the ribs are drilled centrally on each side of the frame, spaced c. 9” apart and starting c. 12” from the stern and bow; 7 more holes of 5/8” are also drilled into the stern.
The hazel rods are now carefully bent in roughly a 1 1⁄2” radius over the knee c. 1-2’ from the thicker butt end. They are now inserted in pairs opposite each other (hence the term couples; they are whittled down a bit if necessary), bent over and tied temporarily. A temporary support frame is inserted to keep the upper part of the ribs straight. The aim is to get a D-shaped hull with a flat, rather than round bottom section.

The stringers

19 or 21 stringers are needed for the boat, 12’ (better 14’) long by 1”x1/4” rough sawn white deal. The last 6” are checked out by 3/8” on both ends to receive the more flexible hazel pieces. Starting with the middle stringer, these are tied on with twine, starting at the second last rib. Tying is done with a continuous length of marlin or polyester twine, crossing each joint twice and using two half hitches tightly at each crossing. A length of twine wrapped around an off-cut of a stringer allows a tighter pull. When the main section is tied, insert a hazel rod into the stern, bend it and continue tying it to the last two ribs, ending in the checked-out part of the stringer. Tie another hazel rod to the front, letting the thin end lie loose in the bow. Continue with alternate stringers on either sides of the middle stringer. Note that only every other hazel rod is inserted into the stern, all others lie loose. Ensure an even spacing of c. 1” apart, but possibly tighter at the bottom of the boat.

Footrests and seat stringer

When this is finished two longitudinal pieces of 2’ x 1”x1/2” are tied c.30” abaft the seat and another 2’ piece is tied reversely on top as a footrest. Repeat this c. 4’ abaft this first one for the second seat. Tie another piece of 3’ x 1”x1 1⁄2” around 5” under each side of the gunwale, starting c. 3” behind the first seat. This will carry the removable second seat, cut to exact length from 7”x1”. Check out a gap for the ribs if appropriate. The whole woodwork can now be treated with a mix of linseed oil and turpentine (see Materials).

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The skin

Covering the boat is next. Traditionally two layers of heavy calico were used, sometimes with brown paper in between. Alternatively a single layer of 12oz canvas will do, limiting the need for stitching. Depending on the width available, layers can be joined either longitudinally at the bottom or in several traverse sections, which limits the necessity for darts near the gunwale. The two triangular sections for the front can be cut diagonally out of a 6’ length of canvas. Seams are also necessary at the front and in each quarter. Tack the canvas loosely to the frame, mark it, leaving c. 1” of hem and stitch the sections using a lock stitch. A ‘speedy stitcher’ comes in handy here. When the stitching is finished, coat the inside with a layer of tar (see Materials page), then turn it over and tack it to the frame with 5/8” copper tacks at 1” intervals. Use the overhang to pull it tight and work from the middle towards the front and aft ends. Finally, cut off the overlap and tar the outside with at least two coats of coal tar and pitch.

Finishing the frame

To finish, attach the cleats and oar pins. Four pieces of oak or deal 18”x1/2”x3” are needed, tapering to 1⁄4” at both ends. These are fixed with four screws to the frame; the distance is determined by the location of the pin, described as follows. The pin should be about 16”-18” from the rear end of the seats, but this may vary with individual needs. Centrally, a tapering 7/8”-1” hole is drilled through cleat and frame. It is important to try a comfortable distance with a pair of oars before drilling! Thole pins are made of 12” oak or better lignum vitae of 1” diameter, tapering to 7/8” at the bottom (a broom shaft will also do the trick); make eight pins to allow for spares (and always carry spare ones with you on the water!).

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The oars

Finally make the four oars from two pieces of 12’ 3”x3” white deal, cut diagonally, tapering from 1⁄2: to c. 2 1⁄2”. Now use a spoke shave or plane to shape the oar: The first 3’ are square, they then turn round then oval and end in a diamond shape at the last 4’. A 6” round handle is carved into the square section, c. 1 1⁄2” in diameter. An 18” long 2”x9” block of oak or deal is attached as a counterweight near the handle (the main bulk of the block on the inside!). This block also receives the pin through a single hole. The hole for the pin tapers from 1 1⁄4” at the bottom to c. 2” at the top, adjusting it later as needed. It is located in one corner of the block, c. 3” from the sides. Attach the block to the oar with three long, heavy screws or spikes, ensuring that there is a 4” overlap of the handles! Measuring at the boat in situ is needed. Again treat the oars with preservative and check seats, oars, etc. for free movement.

The boat is now ready for a ‘sea trial’ on a lake or sheltered bay. For safety, bring a bailer, cellulose sponge, rope and extra pins along with the usual safety gear. Some adjustments may be necessary; a round file will come in handy if the oars are sticky.

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