Research
We based our boat on an example at the Ulster Folk and Transport
Museum in Cultra. This example was built by Alec Shaw in 1983
for the museum as a replica of an 1930s example from Doss,
also at the Museum. The process was well documented through
photos and papers (Michael McCaughan; A Lough Neagh Replica
Fishing Boat; Ulster Folklife, Vol. 30, 1984).
We surveyed both boats, took waterlines of the replica and
produced a drawing of it (copy available on request). We checked
all details there with Charlie McElroy, an Ardboe based boat
builder. We came to the conclusion that the replica was relatively
true to the original construction. However, as the original
keel was missing, the replica was fitted with a 2”x2”
keel while LN boat builders used traditionally a 3”x6”-7”
oak keel. This mistake could be the reason for the tender
handling of the boat, as described by McCaughan.
With funding and quotes in place we started laying the stocks
for the keel of the first traditional LN boat of the new millennium
on the 1st March 2007.
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Setting the Stocks (1st March 2007)
Following Charlie’s procedure, used by many builders
in the region, we put down three 3’ railway sleepers
flat (outer ones rawl-bolted to the floor, middle one floating)
and attached short length of 4”x2” flat on top.
On the latter, steel brackets of 5”x5”x3”,
1⁄4” thick are fixed with a 10mm bolt. The keel
will be bolted through the 10mm holes in the vertical (holes
1” from top).
We copied three templates for the curve from UFTM. These are
transferred from paper to plywood at this stage. A 1 1⁄2”
wide oak board, c. 4” long, is prepared to make some
‘floorbands’ or temporary ribs.
Laying the Keel (8th/15th March
2007)
The oak keel of 17’x 3”x7” is set on the
stocks, but not yet bolted. The stern post is 4’x3”x3”
oak and is joint with a half-lap to the keel, temporarily
held by clamps. It is set at an angle, the top 1’ out
from the vertical. The stem is cut out of a 12” oak
board to a template copied from the UFTM boat. It is straight
and vertical at the top 2’, then curves increasingly
to meet the keel; dimensions 4’x4”x6”. Again,
it is joint with a half-lap to the keel (stem extends the
keel by 1⁄2 “ at this stage).
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Carving the Stem and Keel (22th March 2007)
The stem is now cut and planed to its trapezoid, or rather
hexagonal, shape, tapering from 2” at the front to 4”
astern (see photo). C. 1 1⁄2” at the rear end
are left parallel and into this, a rebate is carved with hammer
and chisel (c. 5/8” deep at the front) to take the planking.
The top 2 1⁄2” are left untouched. This is called
'guttering the stem'. At the bottom end, the stem is planed
to 3” to meet the keel. The keel is bevelled on the
top surface to receive the first two planks. This bevel is
c. 1⁄4” deep and 5/8” wide. At the front
and rear 4’, it gradually ‘twists’ to 5/8”
deep and 1⁄4” wide, allowing the first planks
to change their angle.
Checking for Straightness
It is important that the keel, stem and sternpost assembly
is level and true, to avoid problems at a later stage. This
is checked with a spirit level and plumb bobs. The keel is
now bolted onto the stocks with a 10mm coach bolt going through
the keel. The keel is then drilled (10mm) to receive the keel
bolts at the intervals of the ribs (c.17” apart); a
jig and extended bit is needed for this (see photo). If necessary,
shim with metal strips to make it level. Eyeing for squareness
along a string running from the middle of the stem to the
bottom of the sternpost also helps.
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Apron and First Rib (29th March 2007)
The apron (elsewhere called hog or keelson) is a plank of
5/8” larch that sits on the keel. It is 5” wide
in the middle, gradually tapering to 3” width at the
ends. Its underside is bevelled to take the first strakes.
This bevel corresponds with the twisting bevel on the keel.
A steep angle at the first and last 4’ turns gradually
into a flat angle in the middle. When finished it is matched
up with the stem (see photos).
Two ribs, the third ones c. 50” from the ends (photo),
are cut in five sections out of 1 1⁄2” oak to
the paper templates that we took from the boat in the museum.
Such individual models or templates were usually kept by boat
builders (Willie Matchett had a set painted red to distinguish
them from cut ribs).
Keel bolts are cut from M10 stainless steel threaded bar,
long enough to go through keel, apron and rib. They are inserted
at each rib station and the two ribs are bolted onto these.
A tapering piece of oak is cut for the sternpost and bolted
on, this will receive the first three planks before the stern
widens.
Meanwhile the larch has arrived. It is boat quality European
larch from Northern England
[*EcoNote].
It will now be cut into 3⁄4” boards and properly
stacked.
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Planking
Meanwhile the larch has been planked 5/8” thick, full
width. For a 16’6” boat 10ft planks are sufficient,
as a scarphed plank is easier to handle for steaming and bending.
The saw finish turned out excellent, so there is no need for
planeing. Traditionally only the outside was planed anyway,
as a rougher finish on the inside was preferred for tarring.
Planks are stacked with supports in regular intervals to avoid
warping.
The chamfer in the keel and stem receiving the first plank
is checked and re-cut. A slight gap on the outside (i.e. an
angle of over 90º) is preferable to allow caulking; the plank
can also be shaped later. The front of the first half plank
is shaped for the stem and then steamed for 30-40 minutes
in a steambox which is attached to a catering boiler. Plenty
of clamps and small wooden boards are ready. As soon as the
plank is ready it is clamped to the stem, then twisted and
clamped with the wooden board to the apron (see image) and
left to cool. Then it is taken off and edge and stem shape
are reworked. A ‘lick’ of red oxide paint along
the apron/keel chamfer helps to identify tight points and
areas.
The 5-6” long scarph joint is cut with the foodedge
or adze and then planed. This first half has an edge of c.
1/16”, while the inner scarph of the next half will
run into a sharp pointed edge. At the stem end, the outer
1” of the upper edge is planed with the spokeshave for
a length of 12” to meet the second plank, the two of
which will form a smooth (i.e. not lapped) end at the stem.
When everything fits, the plank is clamped back in place and
pilot drilled (3mm) through the apron at c. 2” intervals.
1 1⁄4” copper square shank nails are driven in
from the outside and held in place with a 2lb weight. The
rove is driven on with a drilled and countersunk M16 bolt
(see Tools page), cut off and riveted
with a hammer.
The whole procedure is repeated with the second half of the
plank, although less shaping is required there.
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Materials List
(Updated as we go along...)
3x 3’xc.4”x8” railway sleepers
1x 8’x4”x2” white deal for stocks
3x 3”x5”x5” 1⁄4” steel L-bracket,
1 hole 10mm 1” from each end
various pieces of 9mm ply for templates
1x 16’x3”mx7”s oak for keel
1x 4’x4”mx6”s oak for stem
1x 4’x3”mx3”s oak sternpost
1x 4’x1 1⁄2”x16” oak for 4x floorbands
1 1⁄2”x2” curved
1x 16'x5"mx1/2"s larch for apron
(or hog)
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