Specifications

There are two, three and four-hander naomhóga, ranging from 16’ to 27’ and about 52” beam. Unlike the Clare Canoe, all lines are curved, there is a distinct taper to 18”-22” at the stern as well as a pronounced rocker and sheerline. Like the Canoe and Aran curachs, it features a girder-type double gunwale, separated by tacaí or struts, a stem and a hull of steamed oak ribs and whitewood stringers, fixed by clenched/hooked copper nails. It is covered in 12oz-18oz cotton canvas, tacked to the upper gunwale. The 10’ oars are held by a single thole pin through a triangular block or bull. An additional mast thwart with a hole afore the first seat carries a stepped 10’x2” mast with a c.45sqft dipping lugs’l, usually of barked heavy calico with bolt rope, single halyard and sheet. Due to the high stern, an engine well is often present abaft, first introduced by John Goodwin from the Magharees. Large naomhóga have a load capacity of up to 1 1⁄2 tons and can reach a cruising speed of 5 knots with four oarsmen. Traditional colours are green gunwales and red (lead oxide red) ribs and stringers.
The term naomhóg does not refer to a ‘little saint’, but has its origin in the latin ‘nave’ for boat, i.e. referring to a little boat.

Distribution

Naomhóga were limited to the Magharees area, north-western coastline of Kerry and the Blasket Islands. Due to their great beauty they have proven very popular and can now also be found in Cork and as far as Lough Neagh, where there are five recent examples.

Making a Naomhóg

In comparison to a Dunfanaghy curach, a naomhóg is more demanding in terms of skills and tools required, yet it is not out of reach for a novice boat maker. Tricky details include the shoulder joint and the requirement to steam and bend the gunwales in two directions. A simple steamer is necessary, e.g. made from a wallpaper steamer or kettle and waterpipe (even a plastic drainpipe will do). Otherwise ordinary DIY tools and builder’s yard materials will do (Materials List).

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Preparation of Small Items

9” chamfered struts are cut out of 3⁄4”x2” deal, giving 6”-7” between gunwales plus two 1” dowels either end to penetrate the frames; they are cut at different angles to give a 2”-3” flare of the gunwales. Six thwart knees are prepared from curved, grown goat willow or oak. Four more for the quarter knees and two ‘V’s for the prow joint. Cleats of 3”x9”x3/4”, long-bevelled at the ends and a mast step of similar dimensions with a 1” hole is also prepared.

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Making the Gunwales

For a 21’er, two length of 16’x3”x3/4-1” white deal are steamed at the last 5’ for c. 45min and clamped and bent. These are laid down and the staggered seats (giving c. 48”-42” beam) are checked out and screwed and glued at the right intervals (number one at the shoulder joint, others c. 36”-40” apart). The 18” stern is half-lapped and fixed. 3/4 “ holes are drilled at an angle at 18” intervals. Mortise holes for the 1”x3/8” ribs are cut at 9” intervals. Struts are inserted and the steam-bent and drilled top gunwale is attached. Curved bow pieces are cut out of ash or oak, half-lapped and are assembled with round or octagonal struts, giving a wide flare. Bow and frames are matched and a scarph joint is cut and planed to give the bow a 9”-15” rise. A shoulder piece for the top frame is cut out of a block of 3”x4” and bolted on to reinforce the joint, the lower joint is supported by the seat. All knees, mast thwart, curved stem piece and ‘tympals’ to hold the pins are attached and the frame is turned over.

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Ribs and Stringers

Around 20 clean, planed oak ribs of 1”x3/8” and up to 7’ length are steamed each for c. 20 minutes and are bent in a C-shape and inserted in the mortises. The front four to five ribs can be ‘snapped’ to give a distinct sheerwater. Starting with a 3” wide and 1⁄4” thick middle rib of white deal (ripped the first and last 4’ in the middle) is pilot-drilled and fixed with 1 1⁄4”x14G square, flat head copper nails at each intersection. Then 20 of 1”x1/4” stringers are attached on either side in similar fashion, increasing the spacing from 1⁄4” to 1 1⁄2” towards the gunwales. Stringers might require steaming or coercing abaft. When finished final adjustments can be made by tapping ribs in or out of the frames. They are then cut, drilled and wedged under the gunwales and occasionally above. The mast shoe is attached to the central stringer. The frame can now be painted or treated with linseed oil and pure turpentine or paraffin (see Preservatives in Materials section).

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Canvassing

Strong 12oz to 18oz cotton canvas is used for the skin, usually supplied in 36”+ width, which require stitching together [*EcoNote]. Either a longitudinal or a traverse lay-out can be used, the latter requiring less darts to take up the slack from the curve. Tacked loosely in place and marked out, stitching can either be done by domestic/industrial machine or by hand, using a lock stitch. A ‘Speedy Stitcher’ hand-sewing awl has proven most useful for the job. In this case stitching is done in situ at the ‘inside’, now on the outside of the inversed canvas. When finished the canvas is turned over again, tightened by gripping the 2”-3” overhang and tacked at 1” intervals at the top gunwale, using 5/8” copper tacks. Starting from the middle, working front and abaft helps, as does leaving sewing the bow till last. The overhang is cut to 3⁄4” from the gunwale and can be tucked under. (More in the Techniques section)

Tarring

It is recommended to coat the inside of the skin with tar before tacking to the frame, particularly with heavier canvas. A mix of hot coal tar and pitch or Tusker Tar is applied, one coat on the inside, at least two on the outside, see section on Tar on the Materials page. Bitumen paint is not recommended, due to its bad UV resistance. A layer of lard or grease applied afterwards will help to repel water. Re-tarring is required once or twice a season. (More in the Materials section)

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Propulsion

A pair of thin-bladed oars can be cut diagonally from a single piece of white deal of 12’x3”x3”, giving a thin blade, tapering from 2 1⁄2” to 1⁄2”. A 6” handle is carved and a triangular bull of apple wood or similar is attached, giving a 4”-6” overlap of the oars. Tapered holes with a tight bottom end are drilled and reamed out. Oak cleats are nailed to the top gunwale and a 3⁄4” hole is drilled to receive 13” long steel conduit thole pins.
A small, trapezoid dipping lug sail is cut from heavy calico and bolted with a 3/8” natural fibre rope, leaving it’s leech clear. Clew and tack eyes are sewn cringles, so are the head eyes for robands. The sail can be tanned with oak bark, as it was tradition in Kerry (see Materials, Sails). The mast is 10’ x 2” diameter spruce, drilled with a hole for the halyard at the top, a ‘dead sheaf’. It has a nose at the bottom that is inserted in the hole in the mast shoe.
The third option of propulsion is using a small outboard engine, a 2.5hp British Seagull 40+ for example delivers 6 knots on a 26’er [*EcoNote]. As the stern is unable to support an engine, an 9”x9” engine well c. 3-4’ abaft the last seat is the best solution.

Finishing

After attaching a bottle of holy water at the front seat. The boat is now ready for the water. Rubbing strips can be attached to protect the canvas edge. However, their underside must be well sealed with Sikaflex or similar to prevent water penetration and rotting.

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